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The Science of Grading Patterns 

for 

Men’s and Young Men’s 
Clothing 

By HARRY SIMONS 

Technical Editor of The Clothing Trade Journal; 

Author of “Designing Overcoats,” “Designing Sack Coats, Dress Coats and Vests,” 
“Drafting Pants and Overalls,” “Drafting Cotton Garments,” “Drafting Shirts 
and Undergarments,” “Designing Boys’ and Juveniles’ Clothing.” 


Second Edition 


Published by the 

CLOTHING DESIGNER CO., Inc. 
New York, N. Y., U. S. A. 


TTb^o 
S 5? 


Copyrighted 3924: 
By Harry Simons 


^ 985 $ 

FEB 21-24 

©C1A77810<S 


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Foreword 


T HE generous reception accorded the first edition of 
“Science of Grading Patterns for Men’s and Young Men’s 
Clothing” and the evident need for an even more compre¬ 
hensive work on the subject have encouraged the author to issue 
this second edition. This volume, while it is based on, and 
includes most of the material contained in, the first edition, 
treats the subject in greater detail, more comprehensive explana¬ 
tions being given where deemed necessary or desirable. 

The system of grading presented in this text-book has 
fully proved its authoritativeness and reliability, to judge by 
the highly commendatory letters and personal expressions of 
satisfaction which the author has had the pleasure of receiving 
from those who have used his book. Not the least satisfying 
aspect of the author’s first effort is the fact that the entire first 
edition has been exhausted, which of itself should be sufficient 
evidence that a second edition is in demand. 

This edition, as the reader will observe, is of a size that 
can be easily and conveniently carried in one’s coat pocket, if 
desired, and compact enough to fit nicely into one’s drafting- 
table drawer. 

The author has given careful thought to the preparation of 
this volume, and has tried to reflect in its pages the experience 
and knowledge gleaned during many years of teaching and 
manufacturing. It is without a doubt the most comprehensive 
work published on the subject. 

This text not only teaches how to grade the regular style 
of garments, but also indicates how to “pick off” such garments 
as raglans, balmacaans, balmaroons, butterfly coats, etc. The 
subject of grading linings is also treated, as properly graded 
linings not only conduce to economy of material, but are of 
invaluable assistance in producing a well-fitting garment. 

HARRY SIMONS. 


3 






CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Balmacaan 

Split Sleeve_ 86 

Whole Sleeve_88 

Balmaroon 

Back_ 74 

Forepart_76 

Sleeves_78 

Butterfly Sleeve _ 90 

Cape 

Back_ 92 

Forepart_94 

Collar _ 32 

Full Grade__34 

Military_92 

Corpulent 

Back_96 

Forepart_98 

Frock 

Back_64 

Forepart_60 

Revere_66 

Sidebody_62 

Skirt_ 68 

Frock, Double-Breasted Skirt_ _ — 68 

Full Dress 

Forepart_58 

Sidebody-62 

Lining 

Back_ 100 

Facing_ 100 

Forepart_100 


5 


























CONTENTS—Continued 


PAGI 

Overcoat 

Back_ _ _70 

Forepart_72 

Fants 

Back-50 

Forepart_52 

Proportions_ 9 

Raglan 

Back_ 80 

Forepart_84 

Sleeve _ 82 

Sack 

Back_ 12 

Back, Full Grade_16 

Back, Stout_:_36 

Forepart_18 

Forepart, Full Grade_ 22 

Stout Forepart_38 

Top Sleeve_ 24 

Top Full Grade-28 

Top Shortening_28 

Tuxedo__56 

Under Sleeve_26 

Under Full Grade-30 

Under Shortening-30 


Vest 

Back- 

Stout Back- 

Forepart- 

Stout Forepart 


6 



























Grading Today 


P ATTERN GRADING is a science. It demands precise 
knowledge of human proportions, of the variations occa¬ 
sioned by growth. It demands minute calculation in the 
production of diagrams, and also accuracy, which is as vital to 
the system as it is in architecture. 

The procedure is that of making a diagram for a given 
size and then grading up to larger sizes and down to smaller 
sizes. In picking off the sizes from the grade the model pattern 
is used to shape the next size. Each size is picked off seperately 
from the grade, using the preceding one to shape from point 
to point. In this way the same lines and effects are given to 
each pattern. 

The divisions allowed in this book are 1 inch in front for 4 
sizes, % inch at side seam of back for 4 sizes. It is strictly 
adhered to except where otherwise stated. A full inch is allowed 
in the width for both the increase and decrease of every size. The 
fallacy of using 5 divisions on this allowance is apparent, even 
considering the argument advanced by those using it. If any¬ 
thing, the larger sizes should have a greater allowance than the 
smaller, speaking only of the width of the size. The author of 
this book has used both. The allowance at shoulder is given as 
4/6 of an inch up to size 42 for every four sizes. You will note 
that in both the Stout Sack and Corpulent Sack a different 
allowance is given on the back. Wherever there is any deviation 
from the regular grade it is so stated. 

The grading of linings is very important, as it is the only 
way to insure a perfect set. If the model is made correctly it 
should save the cost of fitting and prepare the garment right for 
the machine. The shoulders are graded to keep the correct 
proportion throughout. On the Corpulent Sack grade a clear 
idea is given how the sizes over 46 are to be graded. 


7 
















































































































































































































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Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


9 


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Preliminary Explanation 

T HE following diagrams explain in detail how the model 
size is set on the paper, marked around and the base lines 
redrawn. It is essential to memorize every point of the 
first twelve drawings, as they form the basis for grading all 
types of sack coats. This method forms the fundamental con¬ 
struction lines and gives the key for grading all types of over¬ 
coats. Every point necessary for grading men’s and young 
men’s patterns is thoroughly explained in these diagrams. 

As a rule, most of the patterns are graded by the same 
method. There are slight variations here and there, but the 
garments illustrated contain all the fundamental points. They 
have to be located by different methods, depending on the 
character of the garment, such as the butterfly coat and the cape 
coat. 

The author feels confident that no matter what type of 
garment the reader desires to grade he will find in this book the 
points that can be used on that particular garment so as to cor¬ 
rectly grade it. In many cases it will be observed that the 
results of the grading of various sizes will be somewhat different 
than if these sizes were drafted out of the system. This should 
be the case, because most systems are only good for propor¬ 
tionate sizes, where the increases and decreases of the height, 
the breast and the waist run regular, but when the sizes run 
abnormal, such as larger sizes and very small sizes, changes 
must be made in the system of drafting to keep this variation, 
where the grade, as outlined, takes care automatically of this 
difference. The result is that the grade, if properly carried out, 
is more dependable than any system. This has been proved by 
many years of experience and scientific test. 

Proportions 

In order to understand the science of grading it is neces¬ 
sary to understand human proportions and the various measure¬ 
ments of each size, such as the depth of scye, waist length, and 
growth in height; also the width of back, the blade, breast 


10 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 11 

measure, waist and seat measures, the inseam length, the arm 
length and the corresponding sizes of the neck. A full list of 
proportions, from size 34 to 52 breast, is included in this 
volume. 

Simple System 

The system taught in this book is very simple. It is based 
on grading from one size, either size 36 or 38. It is best to 
grade from these sizes because they are model sizes. Size 36 is 
used for grading young men’s garments and size 38 for grading 
men’s garments. For stouts, size 40 or 42 is preferable, because 
these sizes are larger, and it is best to use a larger size as the 
model. 

In starting the grade, see that the model pattern is care¬ 
fully copied on manila or detail paper; 2X manila is the best 
grade and thickness to use. Any paper that has a good edge 
and will cut clean can be employed. After the model is care¬ 
fully copied, and all the points are carefully indicated by awl 
pricks, the size is cut out and remarked on another sheet of 
paper, ready to grade. The back, forepart, top sleeve, under 
sleeve, collar and facing are each to be graded separately. 

Tools 

The tools necessary to grade patterns are a parallel rule, 
an awl, proportional divider, tailor’s square, a carpenter’s pen¬ 
cil and a 6H hard lead pencil. Care must be exercised to make 
all the lines thin and sharp, because if there is any deviation, 
however slight, the difference will tend to increase or decrease 
in each size. It will be found later that on the larger and 
smaller sizes this deviation will show a big difference. 

Diagrams 

The diagrams are laid out so that the student is taught how 
to grade step by step, beginning with the back, and traveling 
from point to point, until the most intricate and most compli¬ 
cated patterns are mastered. Every diagram explains new 
points. The method starts off with grading the back, as shown 
in Diagrams 1, 2 and 3. To start to grade the patterns, proceed 
as follows: 


12 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 1—Back Part of Sack Coat 

Draw line A-B-C-D, which is called the base construc¬ 
tion line. 

Place the back at point A and the bottom at point F, being 
careful that the center seam of the back is in the same position 
as when the pattern was drafted. It is a good idea, when 
grading, always to have the breast and waist lines marked on 
it, although it is not absolutely necessary, because these lines 
can be easily located. 

B-L is the breast line. 

C-M is the waist line and D-N is the bottom. 

B to 0 is 1 inch. 

0 is the point from which the neck line is located on the back. 
This is raised 1 inch above the breast line so as to give the 
exact increase of the width of the neck, as will be explained 
further on in the system. 

B to P is 1 inch. This locates the point of the shoulder line, P-H. 
P is lowered 1 inch so as not to make the shoulders too wide. In 
some of the older systems P was located at the same place 
as point B. 

Draw line 0-G, which gives the increase and decrease for the 
neck sizes. 

Draw line P-H, which establishes the different widths of shoul¬ 
ders for different sizes. 

Point R is half way between H and G. 

Draw line B-R, which is used as a guide line. 

I is the sleeve notch of the back. 

Draw line B-I. 

Draw line B-J, which is the top of side seam of the back. 
Parallel B-J to point K, which will give the same width of step 
for all sizes at the top of the side seam. 

Extend lines at points A-L-M and N. This gives all the construc¬ 
tion lines for grading the back. 


13 



Diagram 1—Back Part 















14 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 2-—Enlarging Back Four Sizes 

Diagram 2 explains how the back is enlarged four sizes. 
In this diagram the proportional divider and the parallel rule 
are used. To establish the various points continue as follows: 

From G to 2 is 4/6 inch, which is the amount of increase 
in height for four sizes; 4/6 inch is used in preference to any 
other measurement because it has been found by experience to 
be the exact amount necessary to get the proportionate height and 
also the correct width of the neck at the top of the back. 

After this distance is established, put the parallel rule on 
points G and A and move it up to point 2. This establishes 
point 3. 

Then parallel from G-R to point 2, which establishes point 

4. Then parallel from G-H to point 2, which establishes point 

5. This gives the increase for the four sizes on the shoulder 
and neck. To get the increase on the side seams continue as 
follows: 

L to 6 is 1/2 i nc h. 

M to 7 is 1/2 inch and N to 8 is ^ inch. This gives 
1/2 inch allowance for four sizes on the side seams. 
Parallel L-K to 6, which gives point 9. 

J to 10 is the same distance as from K to 9. 

Now take the back and draw line 10-5, which intersects 
line I, establishing point 11 by shaping. This produces the 
complete grade for the back for four sizes, or from 36 to 40, if 
size 36 is used as the model. The back is used in shaping lines 
3-2, 2-5, 5-10, 10-9, and 9-8. 





15 


■.1 













Diagram 2—Back Part 




























16 


Diagram 3—Completing Grade of Back 

This diagram shows how the grade is carried out from size 
40 up and from size 36 down. On the same idea the grade can 
be carried out up to size 50 or 52 or down to size 32. All that 
is required to finish the grade on the small size is to shorten the 
length. This is explained in another diagram. To finish the 
grading of the back continue as follows: 

Extend lines A-G-R and H-I-J-K-L-M-N, which are the 
grading lines at the various points. These lines must be extended 
forward and backward. Then space the different sizes, using 
the same divisions, with the exception of a few points, which are 
explained hereafter. 

It will be observed that from 2 to 3, which is 40 to 44, 
there are only three divisions, because after size 42 the distance 
necessary for the depth of scye and the height of shoulder is 
half the amount of the normal size. That is why one division 
is used for two sizes. If an odd size is desired, say 43, a point 
should be placed half way between sizes 42 and 44. This 
scheme should be followed from size 42 up. This is carried out 
only at the neck and shoulder, for on the blade and side seam 
every size is marked. The sizes are given full proportions, the 
same divisions being carried throughout. 

In sizes above 42, at the waist and bottom of the side seam 
% inch is allowed for four sizes, instead of y% inch. After 
the allowance is made, the back is shaped, which finishes the 
grade. 


17 



Diagram 3—Back Part 

























18 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 4—Grading the Forepart 

In grading the forepart there is very little variation except 
at the waist in the larger sizes, otherwise the divisions run reg¬ 
ular. To grade the forepart, continue as follows: 

Forepart Construction Lines 

Mark out the forepart as illustrated and draw the breast 
line, M-N, and waist line, R-P, on it. Then draw line B-C so 
that it strikes the front of the armhole at point A, the notch. 
This establishes point C, where the line B-A intersects the breast 
line. This line also gives the proper extension of the neck point 
at the forepart of the shoulder. 

Point C is the same point from which the lines E-C, D-C, J-C 
and K-C radiate. 

Point B is the neck point. 

Point D is the notch for the break of the lapel in the gorge. 
Point E is the notch for the front step of the collar and lapel. 
Point J is a guide line for the center of the shoulder. 

Point K is the top of the side seam. 

Point F is the outside point of the lapel. 

Line F should be parallel to line E-C. 

L is the width of the step of the side seam on the forepart, and 
line L is parallel to line C-K. 

H is the hollow part of the armhole and G is 1^4 inches from H. 
Point G is extended this distance so as to guard against the 
shoulders becoming too wide on the larger sizes. 

I is the shoulder point at the armhole. 

Draw line I-G, which gives the run for the width of the shoulders 
for the various sizes. 

0 is the notch of the front of the lapel and shows the exact loca¬ 
tion of the break line. 

Line 0 should run about parallel to line F. 

P is the extension of the waist line at the front. R is an exten¬ 
sion of the waist line at the side seam. 

S is a guide line between the waist line and the bottom at the 
front. 


19 



Diagram 4—Forepart 
















20 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


T is an extension of the bottom at the front. 

U is a guide line between the waist line and the bottom at the 
side seam. 

V is an extension of the side seam at the bottom. 

Pockets 

From 2 to 3 is % inch. 

From 3 to 4 is ^4 inch. 

Draw line 2-4, then parallel line 2-4 to 5, which establishes the 
run of the front part of the breast pocket. 

6 to 7 is ^4 inch and 7 to 8 is *4 inch. Draw line 6-8. 

Parallel 6-8 to point 9, as illustrated. 

Lower Pocket 
Draw lines Y-A and Z-A. 

Y to 10 is 14 inch and Y to 12 is *4 inch. 

Z to 11 is ^4 inch. 

Z to 12 is 14 inch. These divisions are used for four sizes. 

Diagram 5—Grading Four Sizes of the 
Forepart 

The preceding diagram explained how the basic lines of 
the grade were made. This diagram illustrates how four sizes 
are graded and the divisions allowed at the various points. To 
make the grade for four sizes proceed as follows: 

B to 13 is 4/6 inch. This allowance also is made on the back 
point of the neck, so that it will harmonize with the front. 
Parallel from D-B to 13, establishing point 16 on the break line 
of the gorge. Then parallel from E-B to 13, establishing 
point 17. Parallel E-F to 17, establishing point 18. . 

N to 19 is 1 inch. Parallel N-0 to 19, establishing point 20. 

P to 21, S to 22 and T to 23 are each 1 inch. This produces the 
neck and the front for four sizes. 

To obtain the increase at the shoulder, continue as follows: 
Parallel B-J to 13, establishing point 14. 

Parallel B-I to 13, establishing point 15. 

M to 26 is i nc k. 


21 



Diagram 5—Forepart 

















22 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


R to 27, U to 28 and V to 29 are each ^ inch. 

Parallel L-M to 26, establishing point 25. 

From K to 24 is the same as from L to 25. 

When using the inch measure on line N-19—the breast line 
for the front increase for four sizes—see that this inch is 1/16 
inch less; in other words, a small inch. A full inch should be 
allowed on the rest of the front. 

Buttons 

W to 30 is the same distance as 0 to 20 and should run 
parallel to line 0-20. 

X to 31 is 1 inch, and should be parallel to the waist line. 

This finishes the grade for four sizes on the forepart. 

Diagram 6 —How to Complete the Grade of 
the Forepart 

All the construction lines are extended both ways and the 
same divisions are used, with the exception of the increase at 
the waist after size 40. 

After size 40, 1^4 inches is used on the front at the waist 
line, bottom and the point in between the waist line and the 
bottom; and 5/8 inch is used for four sizes after size 40 on 
the side seam, waist line and bottom, and the point between the 
waist line and bottom. 

It will be observed that at point H, the hollow part of the 
armhole, a line is drawn to space off the increase of the front 
arm scye. This increase is obtained when the armhole is drawn 
from the shoulder to the notch, which is shown by point A in 
the preceding diagram. 

It will also be noted that at the lower pocket, from size 40 
to 44, the line is extended in front instead of down. Otherwise 
the grade is carried out similarly to that in sizes 36 to 40, as 
illustrated in the preceding diagram. The model pattern is used 
to trace around the points on the larger sizes and on the smaller 
sizes. 


Diagram 6—Forepart 



















24 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 7—Top Sleeve 

This diagram shows how to grade four sizes of the top 
sleeve. 

To grade the top sleeve, proceed as follows: 
A-E-D-C-B-F-H is the top sleeve. 

Space the ball in three sections, as shown by points E-D-C. 

Point A is the sleeve notch. 

Draw lines A-B, A-C, A-D and A-E. 

B to G is 4/6 inch, for four sizes. 

Parallel from B-C to G, establishing point H on line A-C. 
Parallel C-D to H, establishing point I on line A-D. 

Parallel from D-E to I, establishing point J on line A-E. 

F to K is inch, for four sizes. 

H to L is ^4 inch, for four sizes. 

Use the top sleeve to shape lines L-K, K-G and G-H-I-J-A, which 
completes the top sleeve. The larger and smaller sizes 
can be used on the same divisions. 


25 



Diagram, 7—Top Sleeve 




26 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 8—Under Sleeve 

This diagram explains how to grade four sizes of the 
under sleeve. To make the grade proceed as follows: 
B-H-G-F-D-E-I-J-C is the under sleeve. 

Place the inseam of top sleeve at points B and C, as illustrated. 
Point A is the notch of top sleeve. 

Space off the under sleeve line D-B in three sections, as indicated 
by points F-G-H. Then draw lines A-D, A-F, A-G and A-H. 
D to K is 4/6 inch for four sizes. 

Parallel line D-K to E. 

E to L is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel line D-F to K, establishing point M. 

Parallel F-G to M, establishing N. 

Parallel G-H to N, establishing 0. 

I to P is ^4 inch. J to R is ^ inch. 

Shape the lines R-P, P-L, L-K and K-E-M-N-O-B, which com¬ 
pletes the grade of the under sleeve for four sizes. The 
larger and smaller sizes can be graded up and down by 
using the same divisions. 








27 







Diagram 8—Under Sleeve 













% 



28 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 9—Finishing the Grade of the 
Top Sleeve 

This diagram explains in detail how the grade is extended 
from size 33 to size 44. The shortening of sleeves for smaller 
sizes is also explained. This idea is carried out only on young 
men’s sizes. 

Space off the increase and decrease of sizes, as indicated. 

From 36 to 35 and 35 to 34 and 34 to 33 are, respectively, 
1/2 inch apart, which is indicated by the letters D-E-F-G-H-I-J-K. 
This shows the decrease in length of sleeve from size 36 to 
size 33. 

Square up from point A to B. 

B to C is 3/16 inch for three sizes. 

Draw line A-C, which gives the width of tum-up at the 
bottom of the sleeve. 

Parallel A-C to 36, which gives line 33-36 at the bottom 
of the sleeve. 


Diagram 9—Top Sleeve 


30 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 10—Under Sleeve 

This diagram explains how to complete the grade of the 
under sleeve. 

Space off the increase and decrease of sizes as indicated at 
the top of the sleeve. 

From 36 to 35 and 35 to 34 and 34 to 33 are, respectively, 
1/2 i nc h apart, which is indicated by the letters D-E-F-G-H-I-J-K. 
This shows the decrease in length of sleeve from size 36 to 
size 33. 

Square up from point A to B. 

B to C is 3/16 inch. 

Draw line A-C, which gives the width of tum-up at the 
bottom of the sleeve. 

Parallel A-C to 36, which gives line 33-36, at the bottom 
of the sleeve. 


31 



Diagram 10—Under Sleeve 







32 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 11—Grading the Collar 

This diagram explains how to grade a collar for four sizes. 
The collar is graded from the drafting position in the neck, 
which is the correct way, in order to get the proper run of the 
collar, the roundness where it should be, and the proper increase 
of the collar at the back and at the front. To make the grade 
proceed as follows: 

After placing the collar as it is drafted, draw lines A-B-C, 
B-D and B-E. The point where the collar line intersects A-C 
establishes point F. 

F to G is 4/6 inch, the same as the forepart. 

X is the point of intersection of collar and line B-D. 

E is the front point of collar on line B-E. 

Parallel F-X to G, establishing Z. 

Parallel X-E to Z, establishing T. 

Parallel F-H, which is the back point of collar, to G, establishing 
point I. 

Draw line G-I. 

Parallel line F-G to point H, establishing point J. Then draw 
line J-H. 

J to K is the increase of back of collar for four sizes (measure 
increase of back from grade). 

Draw line H-K. 

Parallel H-K to L, which gives line L-N. 

Parallel L-N to 0, which gives line 0-P. 

L to N and 0 to P are the same distance as H to K. 

Draw line R. 

Parallel E-T to U, which gives line U-V. 

U-V is the same distance as E-T. 

Draw line Y-P, which gives point S on line R. 

This completes the grade for four sizes of collar. This 
collar should measure exactly for every size. The collar in¬ 
creases accordingly for the larger and smaller sizes. 


33 



Diagram 11—Grading the Collar 




34 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 12—Finishing the Grade of the 
Under Collar 

This diagram shows how to grade the under collar, as 
carried out from size 33 to 44. There is no variation whatso¬ 
ever. The same divisions are used throughout. It can be ex¬ 
tended to any size desired on the same basis. The same idea is 
used in all styles of garments for a regular collar, irrespective 
of the shape. 


35 



Diagram 12—Grading the Collar 






36 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 13—Stout Back 

The back of a stout is graded similar to the back of a 
regular pattern, with the exception that % inch is used on the 
side seam at the waist line, the bottom and seat line, and that 
inch divisions are used for four sizes at the neck point. 
There is no variation in the height at the back, as on the regular 
pattern, because a smaller division is used which takes care 
of the increase automatically. To make the grade proceed 
as follows: 

B-N is the breast line. 

C-0 is the waist line. 

1)-P is the seat line. 

S-R is the bottom. 

B to F is 1 inch. 

B to G is 1 inch. 

Draw lines F-H, B-I, G-J, B-K, B-L. 

Parallel line B-L to M. 

H to 3 is % inch. 

Parallel H-A to 3, establishing point 2. 

Parallel H-I to 3, establishing point 4. 

Parallel H-J to 3, establishing point 5. 

N to 9 is % inch. 

Parallel N-M to 9, establishing point 8. 

L-7 is the same distance as M-8. 

Draw line 5-7, which intersects line K-B at 6. 

0-10, P-11 and R-12 are % inch each. 

This back is for sizes 40 to 44, and is graded with the 
same proportions for larger and smaller sizes. 


37 



Diagram 13—Stout Back 
















38 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 14—Stout Forepart 

This diagram explains in detail how to grade a stout fore¬ 
part for four sizes. It also explains how to grade a vee in the 
neck. It will be observed that this grade is somewhat similar 
to the regular forepart grade, with the exception that 1% inches 
is allowed for four sizes on the waist line, seat line and the 
bottom of the front, and % inch is allowed for four sizes at 
the waist, seat line and the bottom on the side seam of the front. 
To grade the forepart proceed as follows: 

J-B-U is the breast line. 

L-R is the waist line. 

M-P is the seat line. 

N-0 is the bottom. 

Draw lines C-B, D-B, S-B, F-B, G-B and H-B. 

Parallel line G-B to points 7 and 8. 

Parallel line H-B to point I. 

K-18 is parallel to 1-16. 

T-23 is parallel to S-22. 

W to X is 1% inches. 

Draw line X-E. 

C to 9 is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel C-D to 9, establishing point 10. 

Parallel C-E to 9, establishing point 11. 

U to 24 is 1/2 inch. 

Parallel U-T to 24, establishing point 23. 

S-22 is the same as T-23. 

R to 25 is % inch. 

0 to 27 is % inch. 

Parallel C-F to 9, establishing point 12. 

Parallel F-G to 12, establishing point 13. 

7-14 and 8-36 is the same as G-13. 

Parallel C-H to 9, establishing point 15. 


39 



Diagram 14—Stout Forepart 


















40 Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 

Parallel H-I to 15, establishing point 16. 

J to 17 is 1 inch. 

L to 19 is 1 ^4 inches. 

Draw line 19-17, which intersects line K to 18. 

M to 20 is 114 inches. 

N to 21 is 1 ^4 inches. 

P to 26 is % inch. 

Z to 34 is ^4 inch. 

Y to 33 is 14 inch. 

The vee remains in the same place, with the exception that it 
raises and lowers with the pocket. 

Breast Pocket 

3-4-5-6 is the breast pocket. 

5 to 30 is % inch. 

30 to 29 is 14 inch. 

Parallel 29-5 to 3. 

Draw line 29-5. 

Parallel 3-5 to point 29, which establishes point 28. 

6 to line 31-32 is ^4 inch. Point 32 is ^4 inch up from line 5-6. 
Parallel to point 4, which gives 4-31. 

Draw line V-35 and space into four divisions, which com¬ 
pletes the grade from size 40 to 44. The same divisions can be 
used for larger and smaller sizes. This completes the stout 
giade. 

The sleeves are graded the same as the regular sack. 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


41 


Coats and Vests 

In the preceding pages a full explanation is given for 
grading regular sack coats and stout sack coats. All types of 
sack coats can be graded by the same method, either regular 
or stout. No matter what the shape of the garment, this method 
is absolutely reliable. 

In the lessons following this page, vests, tuxedos, dress 
coats, trousers and all types of overcoats are explained. The 
system as outlined in the lesson on the sack coat is the basis for 
grading the overcoats. Wherever there is any variation it is 
carefully explained. If the explanation is followed closely 
there should be no difficulty to grade any style men’s and young 
men’s garments. 


42 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 15—Vest Back 

This diagram explains how four sizes are graded for the 
vest back. The method used is similar to that employed in the 
sack back, with the exception that an inch is allowed at the side 
seam for four sizes instead of ^ inch? which is the allowance 
on the side seam of the regular back of the sack coat. To make 
the grade proceed as follows: 

Draw line A-E-B-F-C-D. 

Place the top of back at point A, so that the waist line will be 
% inch from point C. 

B to E is 1 inch. 

B to F is 1 inch. 

Draw lines E-G, F-H, B-I, B-J, B-K and C-L. 

Extend M to 9. 

G to 3 is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel G-A to 3, establishing point 2. 

Parallel G-H to 3, establishing point 4. 

Parallel H-I to 4, establishing point 5. 

K to 7 is 1 inch. 

Draw line 5-7, which intersects B-J at 6. 

L to 8 is 1 inch. 

M to 9 is 1 inch. 

This completes the back for four sizes from 36 to 40. 

The larger and smaller sizes can be had by grading up and 
down. 


43 


















44 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 16—Forepart of Vest 

You will note that this vest grade is somewhat similar to 
the sack forepart, with the exception of the side seam. 

G-I is the breast line. 

H-J is the waist line. 

Draw line C-A, establishing point B on the breast line. 

Draw line W-B. 

Y to Z is 1% inches. 

Draw line Z-X. 

Draw lines B-D, B-E and B-F. 

Extend the lines of the pocket, 0-R and N-P, and of the lower 
pocket, S-U and T-V. 

C to 2 is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel C-W to 2, establishing point 10. 

Parallel C-X to 2, establishing point 11. 

Parallel C-D to 2, establishing point 3. 

6 to G is 1 inch. 

Parallel G-F to 6, establishing point 5. 

Draw line 3-5, using forepart as shaper, which intersects line 
B-E, establishing point 4. 

H to 7 is 1 inch. 

L to 8 is 1 inch. 

M to 9 is 1 inch. 

K to 12 is % inch, which is used only for sizes 42 to 44, the 
natural increase of waist. 

Draw line 1-13-12. 

0 to 15 is % inch. 

N to 14 is % inch. 

R to 16 and P to 17 are each ^4 inch. 

S to 18 and T to 20 are each % inch. 

U to 19 and V to 21 are each *4= inch. 

This completes the grade for the vest. For larger and 
smaller sizes, the lines are carried out the same as for the sack. 


45 




















46 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 17—Stout Vest Back 

The method employed in grading a stout vest back is sim¬ 
ilar to the regular vest back, except that % inch is allowed at 
the neck point, similar to the stout sack back. The following 
explanation is given to show just how this back is graded: 

Draw line A-B-C-D-E-F. 

B to C is 1 inch. 

B to D is 1 inch. 

Draw lines C-G, H-D, I-B, J-B, K-B. 

L-B is the breast line. 

M-P is the waist line. 

G to 3 is 1/2 inch. 

Parallel the same as the regular vest. 

L to 8 is 1 inch. 

M to 9 is 1 ^/ 4 . inches. N to 10 is inches. This gives the 
proportionate increase of waist. 

This grade is for four sizes from 40 to 44. For the 
larger and smaller sizes use the same divisions. 


47 




Diagram 17—Stout Vest Back 


fc> tri 














48 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 18—Stout Vest Forepart 

This diagram is somewhat similar to the regular vest, ex¬ 
cept that a greater allowance is made on the front, as will be 
explained. It also will be noted that a vee is taken out in the 
side of the vest. To make the grade continue as follows: 

I-P is the breast line. 

J-R is the waist line. 

Draw line C-A-B. 

Draw lines D-B, G-B, F-B, G-B and H-B. 

2 to 3 is 1% inches, same as for the regular vest. 

Draw line 3-E. 

Draw lines X-12 and K-13. 

C to 4 is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel to point 6 and down to H-9, the same as for the regular 
vest. 

I to 10 is 1 inch. 

J to 11 is 1 inches. 

X to 12 is 1inches. 

K to 13 is 1 inches. 


Pockets 

M to 14 and N to 17 are each % inch. 

L to 15 and 0 to 16 are each ^ inch. 

U to 21 and V to 20 are each % inch. 

T to 18 and W to 19 are each % inch. 

The vee remains in the same place and is lengthened 
according to the front of the lower pocket. This grade is for 
four sizes, and can be increased and decreased for the larger 
and smaller sizes by the same proportions. 


49 



Diagram 18—Stout Vest Forepart 











50 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 19—Grading the Pants 

The method explained here for grading the pants pattern 
is from one size. Most designers are still using two sizes for 
grading the pants, employing two patterns. This is a longer 
way, and the results are not quite so accurate, because two pants 
must be drafted, and it is difficult to obtain the same run or the 
exact lines of each size. Unless this is done the results are 
inaccurate. 

All points are graded the same way, except that in young 
men’s pants the inseam is shortened. This can be done by short¬ 
ening the amount required at the bottom and splitting the 
difference at the knee line; because for every inch the trousers 
are lengthened or shortened, the knee line is either raised or 
lowered 1/2 inch. 

Every point necessary for grading all kinds of trousers are 
explained in the diagram of the grade of the forepart and the 
diagram of the grade of the back part. To make the grade for 
the forepart proceed as follows: 

J-D is the seat line. 

H-E is the knee line. 

G-F is the bottom. 

0 is half way between J and D. 

M-A is the waist line. 

N is half way between M and A. 

Draw lines N-0 and O-R. 

Extend line M-A. 

A to 4 is % inch. 

Square up from 4 to 5. 

4 to 5 is 1/2 inch. 

Draw line A-5. 

M to 2 is % inch. 

2 to 3 is 1/2 inch. 

Draw line M-3. 





























52 Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 

Space off M-J in three parts, then draw lines 0-L and 0-K. 

Space off A-D in three parts, then draw lines 0-B and 0-C. 

Parallel A-B to point 5, establishing point 7. 

Parallel B-D to point 7, establishing point 8. 

Space off from D to 8 in five divisions. 

Draw line 7 to the fourth division of D-8, which intersects line 
0-C at point 9. 

Draw line 5-3. 

Parallel M-L to point 3, establishing point 11. 

Parallel L-J to point 11, establishing point 12. 

Divide J-12 into five divisions. 

Shape the crotch 11-13 to the fourth division of J-12. 

Use ^4 i nc h f° r f° ur s i zes at the knee at H and E. 

Use ^4 inch for four sizes at bottom, at points G and F. 

From 38 to 42 use % inch at knee and bottom. 

These sizes are increased and decreased according to these pro¬ 
portions, with the exception at the front of the waist, where, 
you will note, an allowance of */£> inch is made from 3 to 
point 17 and of % inch from 17 to 16. Then draw line 
3-16 and space it into four divisions, which gives the 
natural increase of the front rise on the larger sizes. 

Draw line 16-18, which finishes the diagram. 


Diagram 20—Pants Back 

This diagram explains in detail how to grade the pants 
back for four sizes. It is important to memorize both this 
diagram and the preceding one, as they form the basis for 
grading all types of pants patterns. To make the grade proceed 
as follows: 

H-C is the seat line. 

G-D is the knee line. 

F-E is the bottom line. 

T is half way between H and C. 








54 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Square up from T to M. 

V is half way between F and E. 

Draw line T-V. 

Prolong line 0-A, also N-L. 

L to 4 is 1/2 i nc h. Square up from 4 to 5. 

4 to 5 is 1/2 inch. 

Draw line L-5. 

A to 2 is 1/2 inch. 

Square up from 2 to 3. 

2 to 3 is ^ inch. 

Draw line A-3. 

Parallel A-3 to 0, establishing 0-8. 

Parallel 0-8 to N. 

Parallel 0-8 to P, which gives P-9. 

B is half way between A and C. 

Draw line B-T. 

Points K, J and I are guide lines and are placed, equally apart, 
on the curve of stride of back. 

Draw lines K-T, J-T and I-T. 

Parallel L-K to 4, giving point 12 on line K-T. 

Parallel K-H to 12, giving point 13 on line T-H. 

Draw line 12-13 to the fourth division of H-13 (H-13 is divided 
into five divisions, same as the forepart). 

This gives points 14 and 15, where line 12-13 intersects lines 
T-J and T-I respectively. 

Parallel A-C to 2, giving point 10. 

Divide C-10 into five divisions, then draw line 3-10 to the fourth 
division of C-10. 

D to 17 is ^4 inch. 

G to 16 is 14 inch. 

F to 18 is ^4 inch. 

E to 19 is inch. 

This diagram is for sizes 34 to 38 and can be carried out 
to the larger and smaller sizes on the same proportions, with 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 55 

the exception of the knee and bottom, which are reduced 1 /g 
inch for four sizes after size 38. 

Stout Pants 

To grade stout pants, the same system is employed as in 
grading the regular pants, with the exception that at the front 
of the forepart instead of coming out % inch and up % inch 
it is necessary to come out inch and up % inch, the same 
as in the larger sizes of this grade. This is applicable only 
at the front of the waist of the forepart. The back-part waist 
is graded exactly the same as the regular pants. 

In grading a stout it is always well to start with size 40 
or 42. On the larger sizes the knee and bottom measurements 
must beheld down; that is, instead of grading every size, skip 
the odd sizes and use ^ inch for eight sizes at the knee and 
bottom, instead of % inch for four sizes. 

Knickerbocker and golf pants are graded the same as 
regular pants. The only difference is in the shape and the 
length. In other words, the regular pants grade can be used 
for grading all kinds of pants patterns for men and young men. 


56 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 21—Tuxedo 

The tuxedo is graded the same as a regular sack. In grad¬ 
ing the vee at the neck, line G-B is parallel to line H. Line 
W-16 is parallel to 8-H and M-13 is parallel to J-10. 

The pocket and under-arm vee are graded similar to the 

sack. 


57 



Diagram 21—Tuxedo 














58 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 22—Full Dress 

The grade for the full-dress forepart is somewhat similar 
to the grade of the regular forepart of the sack coat, except 
for slight variations, which are explained in the text of this 
diagram. The diagram shows how this garment is graded for 
four sizes. To make the grade proceed as follows: 

L-N is the breast line. 

P-R is the waist line. 

Draw lines C-B, D-B, F-B, J-B. 

X to Y is 1% inches. 

Draw line Y-E. 

Parallel line F-B to G-H-I and M. 

Parallel line J-B to K. 

Draw line S parallel to K. 

17 is parallel to 0-16. 

Draw line U-19 parallel to R-18. 

C to 2 is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel G-F to 2, to establish point 5. 

6 -G, 7-H, 8-1 and 12-M are the same distance as 5-F. 

Parallel C-J to 2, to establish point 9. 

Parallel J-K to 9, to establish point 10. 

L to 11 is 1 inch. 

P to 13 is 1 inch. 

T to 15 is 1 inch. 

Draw line 13-15, which establishes point 14. 

N to 20 is % inch. 

0 to 16 is 1/2 inch* 

R to 18 and U to 19 are each % inch. 

V to 21 is inch and W to 22 is ^4 inch. 

V-21 and W-22 are parallel to the waist line. 

This grade is for four sizes. The same proportions are 
used for the larger and smaller sizes. The side body, back and 
skirt are graded similar to the frock. 


Diagram 22—Full Dress 
















60 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 23—Frock Forepart 

The frock forepart is graded almost the same as the full- 
dress forepart. To make the grade proceed as follows: 

I-J is the breast line. 

T-L is the waist line. 

Draw lines B-K, B-D, B-C, B-F, B-G. 

Parallel B-G to H. 

T to U is 1% inches. 

Draw line U-E. 

C to 2 is 4/6 inch, the same division as on the sack coat. 
Parallel from C to D and C to E, the same as for the sack. 
Parallel forward from C to H, the same as for the sack coat. 

T to 9 is 1 inch. 

Parallel from T to R, establishing point 10. 

10-R is parallel to 7-H. 

N to 11 is 1 inch. 

K to 14 is % inch. 

J to 16 is 1/2 inch. 

L to 17 is I /2 inch. 

M to 18 is 1/2 inch. 

Line P-0 is the front vee. 

P to 13 is % inch. 

0 to 12 is 14 inch. 

This is for four sizes. The remainder of the forepart is 
carried out in the same way as the sack. 


61 



Diagram 23—Frock Forepart 








62 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 24—Grading the Side Body 

The side body is a part of the garment that is used in both 
frock coats and full dress coats and should be very carefully 
handled, as it can be easily thrown out of adjustment. In order 
to make the grade proceed as follows: 

Place the side body along the side seam of the forepart, as indi¬ 
cated by points M and J. 

G-F is the breast line. 

K-H is the waist line. 

Draw line B-C and parallel to point D. 

E is half way between D and F. 

Draw lines B-E and B-K. Parallel B-K to M. 

C to 2 is % inch. 

D to 3 is 1/2 inch. 

Parallel D-E to 3, establishing point 4; then parallel E-F to 4, 
establishing point 5. 

H-6 and 1-7 are the same distance as F-5. 

L is half way between C and M. 

Parallel C-2 to L-8 and L-8 to M-9. 

Use the same distance as M-9 at points G-10, K-ll and J-12. 

This grade is for four sizes, and the scheme can be carried 
out on the same proportions for smaller and larger sizes. 


63 





Diagram, 24—Side Body 













64 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 25—Frock Back 

This diagram has many points that are obtained in the 
same way as those for the regular sack back. The following 
explains in detail how a frock back is graded: 

C-M is the breast line. 

N-S is the natural waist line. 

O-R is the fashionable waist line. 

C to F is 1 inch. 

C to G is 1 inch. 

Draw lines I-F, J-C, K-G and L-C. 

1 to 2 is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel I-A to 2, establishing point 3. 

Parallel I-J to 2, establishing point 4. 

Parallel I-K to 2, establishing point 5. 

Parallel K-L to 5, establishing point 6. 

Parallel L-M to 6, establishing point 7. 

N to 8 is ^4 inch. 

0-9, P-10, and T-ll are the same distance as N-8. 

This grade is for sizes 36 to 40. The remainder of the 
grade for larger and smaller sizes is carried out the same as the 
grade of the regular sack coat. 


Diagram 25 — 
Frock Back 














66 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 26—The Revere 

To grade the revere, which is generally used on a double- 
breasted frock, proceed as follows: 

A-B-C-D is the revere, size 36. 

B to 3 and A to 2 are the same increase as the height of 
the forepart. It increases and decreases in the same proportion. 



Diagram 26—The Revere 





68 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 27—Single-Breasted Frock Skirt 

The single-breasted frock skirt and the skirt of the full 
dress are graded practically in the same way, except that instead 
of allowing 1% inches from A to V, which is the general rule 
on frocks, for the full dress only half of the increase should be 
allowed on the front, inasmuch as the skirt comes to only half 
of the front, which would mean that at the front of the full dress 
1inches would suffice for four sizes. Otherwise the full 
dress skirt is graded the same way as the frock skirt, which is 
explained as follows: 

A-B-C-G is the skirt, size 36. 

Draw line A-B. 

A to 2 is the total increase of side body and forepart for 4 sizes. 

3- F is the same as 2-A. 

4- G is the same as 2-A. 

Draw line 2-B. 

Draw lines 5-D and 6-E and space into 4 sizes. 

For the larger and smaller sizes use the same divisions. 

Diagram 28—Double-Breasted Frock Skirt 

The double-breasted frock skirt is graded almost identi¬ 
cally as the single-breasted frock skirt. The following is a 
complete explanation of how this is accomplished: 

A-B-C-D is the skirt. 

A to 2 is the total increase of side body and forepart for four 
sizes. 

C to 3 is the same as A to 2. 

Draw line 2-B. 

Draw lines E and F. 

Space E-4 and F-5 into four sizes. 

For the larger and smaller sizes use the same divisions. 


69 




Diagram 28 — Double-Breasted Frock Skirt 







70 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 29—Overcoat Back 

The overcoat back is drafted in the same manner as the 
sack back. In this diagram is explained how to lengthen and 
shorten men’s overcoats. This method also can be employed 
for lengthening and shortening sack coats for young men. To 
make the grade continue as follows: 

A-B-C-D-E is the back construction line. 

Place the back, as indicated, the same as when drafting. 

B to C is 1 inch. 

B to D is 1 inch. 

Draw the construction lines the same as for the sack coat. 
Parallel the same as for the sack coat. 

Use the same divisions, 4/6 inch at the neck point and inch 
at the side, for four sizes. 

Shorten the coat % inch for each size from 36 to 32. 

Point 21 is % inch from line L-M. 

Draw line M-21, which gives the natural decrease at the bottom 
of the side seam. 

Raise the waist line ^4 inch for each size from 36 to 32, as 
illustrated. 

Point 20 is inch from line M-L. 

This gives the natural decrease of the side seam at the 
waist. All coats can be shortened and lengthened by the same 
method. 


Diagram 29 — 
Overcoat Back 


























72 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 30—Overcoat Forepart 

The forepart of the overcoat is graded in the same manner 
as the forepart of the sack coat. All the construction lines are 
obtained by the same method. The waist line is raised, as 
indicated, from size 36 to 32, *4= inch f° r each size- The length 
is also shortened ^ inch on each size from size 36 to 32. 
Point 28 is 1 inch from line J-H. 

Draw line H-28 and space into four divisions, which gives the 
decrease at the front. 

Point 45 is % inch from line S-T. 

Draw line T-45 and space into four divisions, or else the inter¬ 
secting lines of the different sizes can be used. 

Pockets 

W to 48 is 1 inch. 

X to 49 is 1 inch. 

Divide same into four sizes. This raises the pocket ^4 inch for 
every size from 36 to 32. 

W to 18 and X to 19 are each ^4 inch. 

This division is for four sizes of pocket, from 36 to 40. The vee 
is lowered and raised in accordance with the position of 
the pocket. 

Y to 50 is 1 inch. 

Y to 20 is ^4 inch. 


73 

Diagram 30 — 
Overcoat Forepart 




































74 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 31—Balmaroon Overcoat Back 

The back of the balmaroon is graded with the same con¬ 
struction lines as that of the regular overcoat, 4/6 inch at G-2 
and 1/2 inch at points L-8, M;-9 and N-10, which are the allow¬ 
ances for four sizes. 

Parallel I-J to point 5, establishing point 6. 

Parallel J-K to point 6, establishing point 7. 

The same allowances as on the regular overcoat can be used 
for the larger and smaller sizes. 


Diagram 31 — 
Balmaroon Back 



































76 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 32—Balmaroon Forepart 

This forepart is also graded the same as the forepart of 
the regular overcoat. The only exception in this grade is the 
pocket, which is graded to the front, as illustrated. 

Y to 21 is 1/2 inch. 

25 to 22 is % inch. 

Z to 23 is % inch. 

30 to 24 is 1/2 inch. 

N-14 is parallel to J-10, the top button. 

0-15 is parallel to L-12, the lower button. 

The same allowances as on the regular overeat can be used 
for the larger and smaller sizes. 


77 















78 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 33—Balmaroon Sleeve 

This diagram shows how to grade the new style balmaroon 
sleeve. It is drafted in two pieces, as illustrated. It will be 
observed that it is somewhat different from the regular sleeve. 
One-half inch is allowed at the side seams to equalize the 
amount allowed at the side seam of the back and forepart. 

To grade this style sleeve, proceed thus: 

Draw line C-B. 

A is half way between C and B. 

J is % inch from A. 

K is % inch from A. 

H-I is the bottom. 

0 to N is % inch. 

Square up from K to M. 

Square up from J to L. 

Space off M-B in about three equal parts. 

Space off L-C in about three equal parts. 

M to 3 and L to 2 are % inch. 

B to 10 and C to 6 are ^ inch. 

H to 7 and I to 12 are ^ inch. 

Parallel E-L to point 2 to establish point 4. 

Parallel D-E to point 4 to establish point 5. 

Parallel M-F to point 3 to establish point 8. 

Parallel F-G to point 8 to establish point 9. 

Shape the head and side seam, as indicated, which finishes 
the grade for four sizes. The same allowances are made for 
the larger and smaller sizes. 


79 



Diagram 33—Balmaroon Sleeve 



















80 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 34—Grading the Raglan Back 

Many of the points and lines employed in grading the 
raglan back are similar to those used in the regular overcoat 
back. It will be observed that in the raglan back there are no 
shoulder points. To make the grade proceed as follows: 

A to B is 1 inch. 

Draw lines B-C, B-E, A-F, A-G. 

A-J is the breast line. 

K-L is the waist line. 

C to 2 is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel from C-D to 2, establishing point 3. 

J to 8 is 1/2 inch. 

Parallel J-H to 8, establishing point 7. 

G-6 is the same as H-7. 

Draw line 4-6, which intersects line A-F, establishing point 5. 
K-9 and M-10 are the same as J-8. 

The remainder of the back is graded the same as the 
regular overcoat, using the same proportions on the larger and 
smaller sizes. 


Diagram 34? 
Raglan Back 








82 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 35—Raglan Top Sleeve 

The following is a practical method for grading a raglan 
top sleeve. The increase and decrease of the sleeve will cor¬ 
respond to the forepart, so that the sleeves will sew in correctly 
nnd have the necessary length. To make the grade, proceed as 
follows: 

Place both parts of top sleeve as illustrated. Draw line A-B. 

C is half way between 6 and 7. 

Draw line C-D and C-E. 

Parallel C-D to G. Parallel C-E to F. 

D to 2 and G to 3 are each 4/6 inch. 

E to 8 and F to 9 are each 4/6 inch. 

Draw lines C-H and C-J. 

Draw line 3-A, which intersects line C-H, establishing point 4. 
Parallel from F-J to point 9, establishing point 11. 

Parallel B-J to point 11, establishing point 12. 

0 to 13 is inch. 

Draw lines L-5 and K-10, which are used as guide lines. 

This finishes the grade for four sizes. The same propor¬ 
tions are used for the larger and smaller sizes. 

The under sleeve is graded the same as the regular under 
sleeve, as explained in a preceding diagram. 



Diagram 35—Raglan Top Sleeve 










84 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 36—Raglan Forepart 

In this diagram there are only a few points that are 
different from the overcoat, due to the fact that the shoulder is 
entirely cut away. To make the grade proceed as follows: 
G-M is the breast line. 

N-0 is the waist line. 

Draw line C-A-B. 

C to 2 is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel C-2 to J. 

J-3 is the same as C-2. 

Parallel forward from C, respectively from points D and E. 
Draw line F-6 parallel to E-5. 

N to 9 is 1 inch. 

Parallel N-H to 9, establishing point 8. 

Draw line 6-8, which intersects line B-G at 7. 

P-10 and 5-11 are the same distance apart as N-9. 

Draw line B-K. 

Parallel B-K to L. 

M-15 is % inch. 

0-16, R-17 and T-18 are the same distance apart as M-15. 
Parallel M-L to 15, establishing point 14. 

K-13 is the same as L-14. 

Draw line U-12, which is used as a guide line. 

This finishes the grade for four sizes, from 36 to 40. The 
same proportions can be used for the larger and smaller sizes. 


Diagram 36 — 
Raglan Forepart 











86 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 37—Balmacaan Split Sleeve 

The back and the forepart of the balmacaan are graded 
somewhat similar to the raglan, which is illustrated in the pre¬ 
ceding diagram. Place the two halves of the sleeve as shown, 
then proceed as follows: 

Draw line B-C. 

A is half way between T and U. 

S to R is % inch. 

U to T is % inch. 

Draw lines A-E and A-D. 

Draw lines A-H, A-I, A-F and A-G. 

Parallel line D-A to point 2. 

Parallel line A-E to point 3. 

D to 4 is 4/6 inch. 

5 to 2 is 4/6 inch. 

E to 18 is 4/6 inch. 

3 to 17 is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel E-F to 18, establishing 19. 

Parallel F-G to 19, establishing 20. 

Parallel A-C to N. 

N to 21 is Y 2 inch. 

Parallel A-C to L. 

L-M is Y 2 i nc h. 

P to 12 is ^4 inch. 

Draw line 14-16. Then draw line 13-15. 

Parallel D-H to 4, establishing 6. 

Parallel H-I to 6, establishing 7. 

Parallel B-A to J and K. 

K to 8 is % inch. 

J to 9 is ^ inch. 

0 to 11 is ^4 inch. 

Draw line 9-11, establishing point 10, which completes the 
grade for four sizes. Use the same proportion on the larger 
and smaller sizes. 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


87 



Diagram 37—Balmacaan Split Sleeve 








88 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 38—Balmacaan Sleeve 

This diagram has many points that are similar to the grade 
of the split-sleeve balmacaan, especially at the side seams. To 
make the grade proceed as follows: 

Draw line B-C. 

A is half way between B and C. 

Draw lines A-E, A-D, A-C, A-G, A-H, A-I. 

Parallel E-A to F. 

E to 2 is 4/6 inch. 

3 to F is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel F-G to 3, establishing point 10. 

Parallel H-G to 10, establishing point 11. 

Parallel I-H to 11, establishing point 12. 

Parallel A-C to J. 

J to 13 is I/) inch. 

C to 14 is % inch. 

Parallel E-D to 2, establishing point 4. 

Parallel C-D to 4, establishing point 5. 

Parallel A-B to K and L. 

L to 6 is 1/2 i nc h. 

K to 7 is 1/2 inch. 

N to 15 and M to 9 are each 14 inch. 

Draw lines 14-15 and 7-9. This finishes the grade for four sizes. 
The same proportions are to be used on the larger and smaller 


sizes. 


89 



Diagram 38—Balmacaan Sleeve 

















90 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 39—Butterfly Sleeve 

This is a unique grade and shows just how a garment of 
this kind can be handled. In order to make the grade proceed 
as follows: 

D-E-F-G is the back construction line. 

B-A-C is the breast line. 

Square up from point A to I. 

Draw line A-D. 

D to 2 is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel D-I to 2, establishing point 3. 

Draw line A-J. 

Parallel A-J to K. 

J to 4 is Y\/2 inches. 

K to 5 is V /2 inches. 

L to 6 is 1/2 inch. 

6 to 7 is 14 inch. 

Draw line L-7. 

M to 8 is ^4 inch. 

8 to 9 is 1/2 inch. 

Draw line M-9. 

H to 14 is 1/2 inch. 

Parallel lines N-ll, 0-12 and P-13 from line A-J. 

P to 13 is 1/2 inch. 

N to 11 and 0 to 12 are each ^2 inch. 

This completes the back for four sizes. The forepart is graded 
the same as the raglan forepart. 
























92 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 40—Shoulder Cape Back 

This grade is for a shoulder cape. The diagram explains 
how to grade a garment where there is no back arm scye line. 
It also explains how to obtain the exact increase for four sizes 
at the neck for a button-to-the-neck garment, so that the neck will 
come out proportionately for the various breast sizes. To make 
the grade proceed as follows: 

F-C-H is the back construction line. 

F-I is the center seam of back. 

H to I is 1 inch, the amount the back is swung in from line 
F-H. 

C-B is the breast line. 

Square up from A to D. 

D to E is 4/6 inch. 

E to 3 is 14 inch. 

Draw line 3-D. 

Parallel D-F to 3, establishing point 2. 

B to 5 is 1/2 inch. 

J to 6 is % inch. 

Draw line 3-5, establishing point 4 on line A-G. 

This grade is for four sizes. The same changes are made after 
size 42 as on the regular back. 

Collar 

A-B-C-D-E-F is the collar. 

The allowances for sizes are made at the back or center 
seam of collar. An allowance of % inch is made at points A, 
B and C for 4 sizes. 


Diagram 40 — 
Shoulder Cape Back 












94 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 41—Shoulder Cape Forepart 

This illustration explains how to grade four sizes of the 
shoulder cape forepart. It also shows how to grade the neck of 
a garment that has no front arm scye, how to get the correct 
slant of the shoulder point, and how to obtain the correct in¬ 
crease for four sizes of the neck in proportion to the breast 
measurements. In order to make the grade proceed as follows: 
B-C is the breast line. 

Square up from A to D. 

D to E is 4/6 inch. 

E to 2 is ^4 inch. 

Draw line 2-D. 

Parallel 2-D to 3. 

3 to 4 is the same as D to 2. 

Parallel D-ll to 2, establishing point 12. 

Parallel D-5 to 2, establishing point 6. 

2 to 6 is ^4 inch more than the distance D to 5. 

Parallel line 6-5 to points 7 and 9. 

7 to 8 and 9 to 10 are the same distance as 6 to 5. 

B to 13 is 1 inch. 

G to 14 and I to 15 is 1 inch. 

C to 17 is 1/2 inch. 

II to 18 and J to 19 are each ^ inch. 

Draw line A-F, half way between 3 and C. 

Draw line 4-17, which intersects line A-F, establishing 16. 

This grade is for four sizes. The same proportions are 
used on the larger and smaller sizes. 


J5L 












96 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 42—Corpulent Back 

The corpulent sack coat is graded the same as the regular 
stout. The only difference is that at the point of neck, I to 2, % 
inch is allowed for four sizes instead of ^ inch. This is 
paralleled across the neck and shoulder. Otherwise all con¬ 
struction lines are the same. The diagram is for sizes 46 to 54. 



97 




























98 


Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 43—Corpulent Forepart 

The forepart is graded the same as the regular stout fore¬ 
part, with the exception that the shoulder point is thrown back, 
as illustrated by line K-C. It will be noted that line B-E is 
drawn from the pivot point B instead of going out 1% inches, 
as on the regular stout grade. 

The pocket is not graded lower on this grade. It only 
extends forward, ^4 inch from W to 21 and ^ inch from 21 
to 41. 

The construction lines are the same as for the regular stout, 
with the exception as stated above. The allowance at the waist 
from P to 12 is l 1 /^ inches for four sizes. From S to 18 it is 
% inch for four sizes. On the breast line, from J to 10, it is 
1 inch for four sizes. From L to 17 it is % inch for four sizes. 
The same proportions are used for the larger sizes from 50 to 
54 as here illustrated. 


99 


















100 Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 


Diagram 44—Back Lining 

All lining patterns should be graded so as to insure a 
perfect run of sizes. This will eliminate fitting and prepare 
the coat for direct routing to the machine. 

To make the grade proceed as follows: 
A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H-I-J-K is the pattern of back. 
L-M-K-J-R-P-O-N-F is the lining pattern. The lining pattern is 
placed in the same position as when constructed. 

Draw lines B-F, G-G and H. These lines are the same as those 
on the regular back grade. 

Parallel line G-C to 0. 

Parallel line H to P-R. 

F to N is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel line F-L to N, establishing 2. 

N to 3 is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel line N-0 to 3, establishing 4. 

6 to I is 1/2 inch. 

J to 7 and K to 8 are each ^ inch. 

P to 5 is 1/2 inch. 

Draw lines 2-N, N-3, 3-4, 4-5, 5-P and P-6-7-8, which completes 
the grade for four sizes. The remainder of the grade can be 
carried out the same as for the regular back. 


Diagram 45—Forepart Lining and Facing 

This diagram shows in detail how the forepart lining and 
facing are graded. It is a rather complicated diagram. If 
care is taken it will give the utmost satisfaction. In order to 
produce the grade proceed as follows: 

B-E-I-J-D-C is the forepart. 

F-G is the breast line. 

H-K is the waist line. 

Draw line B-A. 







































102 Science of Grading Clothing Patterns 

Place the lining as indicated by points 50, 56, 55, 52 and 51, 
the same as when constructed. 

Draw line A-B. 

Parallel A-B to point 50. 

Draw line G. 

Parallel C to point 51. 

Draw line A-D. 

Parallel D to point 52. 

50 to 60 is 4/6 inch, the same as on the regular forepart. 
Parallel line 50-51 to 60, establishing point 61. 

60 to 62 is 1/2 inch. 

53 to 63 is 1/2 inch. 

55 to 65 is % inch. 

68 to 58 is 1 inch. 

67 to 57 is 1 inch. 

56 to 66 is 1 inch, which completes the lining for four sizes. 

For the larger and smaller sizes use the same divisions. 

Facing 

1-2-3-4-5-6-7-27-18-10-9 is the facing. Place the facing in the 
same position as when constructed. 

Parallel line A-B to point 2. 

Draw lines A-26 and A-3. 

Parallel line A-3 to 4 and 5. 

1 to 11 is 4/6 inch. 

2 to 12 is 4/6 inch. 

Parallel 1-26 to point 11, establishing point 25. 

Parallel 1-3 to point 11, establishing point 13. 

4-14 and 5-15 are the same as 3-13. 

7-17, 27-37, 9-19, 10-20 and 18-56 are each 1 inch. 

This completes the facing for four sizes. Use the same divisions 
for the larger and smaller sizes. 



































































































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